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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
 
Alex Honnold and co-host Fitz Cahall share stories from the people who define the sport of climbing by pushing the boundaries and challenging the status quo of the previous generation. Athletes. Risk takers. Dirtbags. Pioneers. Community builders. Outsiders. Leaders.
 
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over sto ...
 
The American Climbing Project is a podcast mixtape focused on all your social climbing needs, and then some. It addresses various topics in climbing, with an intentional deviation from performance and training. The focuses will change, but will always center on vulnerability, candid conversation, and a desire to reflect the voice of everyday climbers.
 
This is the podcast from BLISTER (blisterreview.com) that is dedicated to the community and culture that surrounds rock climbing. We cover the major events, prominent trends in the sport, gear and equipment, and the individuals that make the climbing world so colorful. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
 
Climbing With Scars is a podcast that has a focus on business and helping inspire others to do everything they want in life. Phil Scardigno talks about many different topics covering the entrepreneurial world and sharing funny and sometimes outrageous stories of his upbringing and beginnings in his business life.
 
Chalk Talk is a Climbing Industry podcast. A place to find interesting and enlightening discussions with professionals in the rock climbing industry. In depth conversations with route setters, coaches, professional climbers, gym managers/owners and much more. Chalk Talk is the place to find inspiration and contemplation on the future of the climbing world and where to take your climbing to the next level.
 
Join host Kevin Riley for in-depth interviews with the pillars of the rock-climbing community. We’ll be speaking with athletes, writers and photographers, industry VIPS, and, of course, the Climbing editorial staff to discuss breaking news and the pressing issues of the day. Whether you’re an elite alpinist, a recreational sport climber, a die-hard trad climber, or a vFun boulderer—this podcast is for you.
 
A podcast devoted to the lifestyle of amateur climbers and adventurers. Aiming to see the world through the lens of climbing, Traverse seeks out interesting/unique topics on the climbing experience of those of us who consider ourselves amateurs at heart. We're not paid to climb, we make no money traveling. We simply love what we do and want to talk about it.
 
Karen Otis, architect and author, is helping women follow their passion, take the next step in their careers, and crushing the gender bias in male dominated industries! Guiding women towards financial freedom and unstoppable success. Step into your heels gals, and grab your hard hat, because together we will conquer your world!
 
Currently producing a weekly review show recapping our favourite moments of the last 7 days of wrestling.Future series' delve into the history of the business, a look at the Legends of the industry, Women's Wrestling debates from women, about women, for men and women presented by women, a look inside the world of merchandise collectors and figure collectors with contributions from our hidden identity professional wrestler friend of the show discussing their experiences learning how to wrestl ...
 
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show series
 
Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar t…
 
Hostility and arguments often start when one person feels slighted / hurt or disrespected. And that hostility is usually returned by the recipient -‘d an argument ensues. In this episode of the podcast we work through a 4 Step Conflict Resolution model that allows us to de-escalate the situation and move onto problem solving.…
 
Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. …
 
On Episode 224 of the Enormocast, I connect with bouldering legend, John Sherman. “The Verm”, as he is widely known, is a seminal boulderer in America and the world. Known as much for his antics and his legendary toughness, John Sherman also likely bouldered there first as he spanned the continent looking for and developing … Continue reading "Enor…
 
ROPE ACCESS NUMBERS - PODCAST - THE ROPE ACCESS AND CLIMBING PODCAST Hello and welcome back to The Rope Access and Climbing Podcast. Today I’m chatting about Rope Access Numbers. Not the number of people in the industry or the number of things that have gone wrong. But the Measurements we seem to talk about in our industry. Last week (JULY 11/21) I…
 
This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmit of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personal…
 
In 2017, a forty-foot fall broke Brittany’s L1 vertebrae, sending a piece of bone into her spinal cord. She describes it as one of those surreal dreams where you wake up and think, “Thank God—that wasn’t me standing in my underwear in front of the entire classroom. It wasn’t real.” Except, after she woke up—shit got real. Brittany has been gritting…
 
Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his parents' basement, a chronology of his haircuts, vans he’s lived in, having kids, bouldering with cargo nets in Hueco Tanks, and notable highball ascen…
 
In the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic …
 
On this episode of the podcast we explore the ideas of “being heard” and acceptance. We first define “acceptance” and then we hi-light the research as to why it’s so important for a woman to feel heard and accepted. We then describe how to make your partner feel heard and accepted using both non-verbal and verbal methods. Finally, we walk through f…
 
Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how t…
 
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese. You can support …
 
In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts …
 
ENTERTAINMENT RIGGING WITH SIOBHAN - INTERVIEW - THE ROPE ACCESS AND CLIMBING PODCAST Hello and welcome back to The Rope Access and Climbing Podcast. This week I’m chatting with Siobhan about the industry of Entertainment Rigging as well dive into a little bit of Suspension Trauma and Fall Protection standards. Please go and subscribe to her YouTub…
 
On Episode 223 of the Enormocast, I sit down with legend, John Long. I first met Long, AKA Largo, some 25 years ago in West Los Angeles at a climbing gym. As I got to know him in that gym community, I quickly realized that the John Long I knew from his books like Gorilla … Continue reading "Enormocast 223: John Long – Existential Horsepower"…
 
On this episode of the podcast we focus why your partner / ex won’t simply let you just walk up the mountain to become a free and loving person. First we describe the three reasons why she won’t let you just walk up the mountain. Then we describe how to handle her challenges and provocations as you climb the mountain to become a superior free and l…
 
John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug a…
 
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being present, navigating digital minimalism as a business owner, top vanlife tips, how William and I each do our dishes, beta for showering, wiping your butt with wet wipes, my favorite things in my van, and what…
 
Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my …
 
Feeling a “loss of control” in your life can be debilitating and the cause of adverse health events. Divorce, separation, break up and job loss are all likely to a feeling of “loss of control.” On this episode of the podcast we first explain the negative mental and body health impact of perceived loss of control. We then explain how the power of yo…
 
LET'S TALK SPRAT WITH TROLL - THE ROPE ACCESS AND CLIMBING PODCAST Hello and welcome back to The Rope Access and Climbing Podcast. This week I’m chatting with Troll about All Things SPRAT. I haven’t done a lot of research on SPRAT in past years, as a Canadian working in the Oil and Gas industry, this certification isn’t widely accepted. However, al…
 
Ship Rock. The Totem Pole. Spider Rock. Just because it’s there doesn’t mean we should climb it. We dive into the troubled relationship between climbers and tribes and take apart the inaccurate story the climbing community has been telling itself for decades. Climbers Aaron Mike, Len Necefer and Tara Kerzhner help brush away the chalk to reveal a d…
 
After multiple surgeries Sasha Digiulian returns to hard climbing with the first free female ascent of Logical Progression in Mexico. We bring you a round up of all the 9a's that have been climbed this week as well as the big stories from the climbing world.
 
On Episode 222 of the Enormocast, I connect with Harvey Merritt Wright. Harvey Wright is a climber, musician, and hair dresser from Vancouver, BC and the recent subject of a full length documentary film, Crux. Harvey also deals with drug and alcohol addiction. When Harvey first started climbing, he hit it hard and quickly achieved … Continue readin…
 
Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first ascents, outdoor bouldering vs. indoor training, climbing and life goals, discovering coaching, leading by example, and sharing the love of climbing with …
 
Sean “Stanley” Leary never got a lot of media attention, but he was a driving force in the progression of the sport and beloved by the climbing community. He held numerous speed records in Yosemite, pioneered new routes on Baffin Island and was on the leading edge of wingsuit flying. Alex shares some of his memories of climbing with Stanley.…
 
This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo shoot. We also talked about Katie’s new goal to climb 300 5.13s by the age of 50, how she has been integrating outdoor climbing with training, and how she structured her latest sport climbing trip to the Red…
 
About Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his lates…
 
In this episode of the podcast we first define flirting and discuss why the ambiguity and vagueness of flirting is especially important to woman. Second, we discuss female body language that signals she’s interested in you. Third, we describe the male body langue that females are attracted to. And finally we discuss the nature of “touch” and how it…
 
Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown affects us all from time to time. The long-term goal is NOT to eliminate fear, but rather to become an expert fear manager....which is the focus of this (and the next) podcast. Lis…
 
This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers. Discoun…
 
Dave Jones is one of the rare ones. Growing up in Victoria, he quickly ended up spending many of his early climbing years making his way out to Arapiles and The Grampians. It wasn’t long before Dave started finding his own lines to climb, searching out unclimbed features which caught his imagination. Some of his notable First Ascents include Punks …
 
PETZL ROPETRIP WITH MICAH RUSH – PODCAST - INTERVIEW THE ROPE ACCESS AND CLIMBING PODCAST Hello and welcome back to The Rope Access and Climbing Podcast. This week I’m chatting with Micah Rush from Peak Rescue about his experience at the Petzl RopeTrip as a judge and a competitor. We also chat a little bit about our thoughts on Rope Access, Rope Re…
 
After a protracted battle over bolts and sport climbing, American climbers nearly lost the ability to climb on public lands in the early 1990s. It would have completely altered the course of our sport. Fortunately, lawyer and climber Armando Menocal rose to the challenge of protecting climbing for generations to come, despite the fact that many cli…
 
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