#120 Alvaro Rangel — Coaching Team USA at the Olympics, Not Saying ‘Strong’, The Most Important Skill, Making Finals vs Semi’s, Case Studies, and The Future of Comp Climbing

The Testpiece Podcast

#Sports #Testpiece #Climbing #Boulder #Competitive #Coaching #Rock Climbing #Rockclimbing #Timkang #Goodtogreat

5:58

In 1966, two Brazilian men were found dead on Vintém Hill under bizarre circumstances that continue to perplex investigators and conspiracy theorists alike. Lying side by side, their bodies were discovered wearing matching lead masks—shields with no eyeholes—alongside cryptic notes. Were they victims of a cult ritual, a failed experiment, or something even more otherworldly? See Privacy Policy at https://art19.com/privacy and California Privacy Notice at https://art19.com/privacy#do-not-sell-my-info .…

год назад 2:33:21

MP3•Главная эпизода

Alvaro Rangel, Al, is back on the podcast after 2+ years! Al was one of the first guests and one of the best. The last podcast we did was incredible, but somehow Al managed to top it with today’s episode.

He is the founder and head coach of Team Class 5 in San Diego, CA. Al is also part of the Team USA coaching staff and supports the team at World Cups as well as at the recent Paris Olympics.

Al’s insight into what makes climbers the best in the world is rare. He shares his thoughts on what mastery in climbing looks like, the most important skill for a competitor to develop, and even his case studies on the top climbers in our sport.

SHOW NOTES:

Support the show

Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Разделы

1. #120 Alvaro Rangel — Coaching Team USA at the Olympics, Not Saying ‘Strong’, The Most Important Skill, Making Finals vs Semi’s, Case Studies, and The Future of Comp Climbing (00:00:00)

2. Not Saying 'Strong' (00:06:59)

3. Generating Momentum (00:30:12)

4. Routesetting is Coaching (00:56:54)

5. What is Mastery? (01:08:27)

6. The Most Important Skill (01:13:20)

7. Case Studies (01:51:52)

8. Coaching for Team USA (02:06:45)

9. How do you go from Good to Great? (02:24:18)

151 эпизодов

The Testpiece Podcast

#120 Alvaro Rangel — Coaching Team USA at the Olympics, Not Saying ‘Strong’, The Most Important Skill, Making Finals vs Semi’s, Case Studies, and The Future of Comp Climbing

The Testpiece Podcast

published год назад

MP3•Главная эпизода

He is the founder and head coach of Team Class 5 in San Diego, CA. Al is also part of the Team USA coaching staff and supports the team at World Cups as well as at the recent Paris Olympics.

SHOW NOTES:

Support the show

Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Разделы

1. #120 Alvaro Rangel — Coaching Team USA at the Olympics, Not Saying ‘Strong’, The Most Important Skill, Making Finals vs Semi’s, Case Studies, and The Future of Comp Climbing (00:00:00)

2. Not Saying 'Strong' (00:06:59)

3. Generating Momentum (00:30:12)

4. Routesetting is Coaching (00:56:54)

5. What is Mastery? (01:08:27)

6. The Most Important Skill (01:13:20)

7. Case Studies (01:51:52)

8. Coaching for Team USA (02:06:45)

9. How do you go from Good to Great? (02:24:18)

151 эпизодов

#Sports #Testpiece #Climbing #Boulder #Competitive #Coaching #Rock Climbing #Rockclimbing #Timkang #Goodtogreat

Semua episod

1
#151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment 1:44:29

3 дня назад1:44:29

1:44:29

Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year. Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock ! Mad Rock’s mottos is “ CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” SHOW NOTES: Shauna Coxsey Instagram Shauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14) Foxy Climbing Mad Rock Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World 18:02

6 дней назад18:02

18:02

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Emil’s Instagram Emil’s YouTube Channel Tension Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He’s A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight 1:35:23

10 дней назад1:35:23

1:35:23

Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel . Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times! Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15. Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real climber’. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing ! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Emil’s Instagram Emil’s YouTube Channel Tension Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?! 48:10

13 дней назад48:10

48:10

This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny , #147 . Please listen to that episode first for context! Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one... Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing! SHOW NOTES: Kenny's Previous Episode On Testpiece, #147 Kenny Suh Instagram Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder) Mad Rock Instagram Mad Rock Website Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#147 Kenny Suh — Shocking Industry Tell All (The NDA’s Have EXPIRED), Who Actually Makes Your Shoes?, CEO Of Mad Rock, “Finger Condoms”, and Shoes In 2030 Will Be Made Like This 1:41:49

17 дней назад1:41:49

1:41:49

Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock . Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future. Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what’s actually going on. SHOW NOTES: Kenny Suh Instagram Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder) Mad Rock Instagram Mad Rock Website Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#146 Chris Weidner — First 14c At 50, The Invention Of Kneepads, Member #112 At The 1st US Gym, and How Ice Climbing Helped Chris Send 14c 1:54:25

24 дня назад1:54:25

1:54:25

Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US! You’ll also recognize Chris’ voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions. SHOW NOTES: Chris’ Instagram Chris on The Green Mile (14c) by LT11 Chris on the FA of Galmbers Fallacy (13b multi pitch FA) by LT11 Kong Extendo Cheater Draw Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments’ 14:44

27 дней назад14:44

14:44

This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte , right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Chris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression’ Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800’s, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn’t Scale 2:03:56

4 weeks назад2:03:56

2:03:56

Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before. SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s Instagram Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page Josh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris) Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever 1:45:03

5 weeks назад1:45:03

1:45:03

Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt! That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there. This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen! If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing ! SHOW NOTES: Bushido Climbing Simon Lorenzi’s Instagram Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers 1:47:51

6 weeks назад1:47:51

1:47:51

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter ! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance . This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy. Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers. Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode. SHOW NOTES: Rob Hunter’s Instagram Tyler Nelson’s Instagram Rob’s Business, My Therapy Physio Tyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human Performance Tyler’s YouTube Channel Tyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming Isometrics Squeezing The Lemon / Orange Demonstration Tyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling” Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution 17:06

7 weeks назад17:06

17:06

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future. Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #140 for context! SHOW NOTES: Austin Hoyt’s Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/hoyt.austin/ Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel : https://www.youtube.com/@Climbveez Austin Hoyt’s Testpiece Episode #140 : https://youtu.be/i2unRIlVdHk Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#140 Austin Hoyt — Breaking Beta On Lucid Dreaming, FA’ing NE’s First V15, “NE Is The New SE”, and Why Everyone From There Has Strong Fingers 1:52:11

7 weeks назад1:52:11

1:52:11

Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately. Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf , as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move. Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast. SHOW NOTES: Austin Hoyt’s Instagram Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel Issac Leff’s YouTube Channel Beta labs (Austin’s Company) Mad Rock Decoy Holds Mimic Holds Testpiece Podcasts Mentioned: Noah and Benn Wheeler Adam Shahar Ross Fulkerson Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#139 Ross Fulkerson — 70ft Whips, Filming “Between The Tides”, Expectations Of A Pro-Climber, and How To Deliver Peak Performance When Everything Is Against You 1:37:49

8 weeks назад1:37:49

1:37:49

This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock ! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson” . Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the most of the climbing between heavy rain and big swells. This podcast gives a behind the scenes look at the creation of the video and fills in all the gaps that a 20 minute video can’t quite capture. SHOW NOTES: “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson” Filmed and Edited by Raul Onyett Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram Ross Fulkerson’s YouTube Ross’ Previous Testpiece Episodes: Podcast #3 Podcast #4 Podcast #124 Podcast #133 Mad Rock Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#138 BONUS [Kai Whaley] — Secret Projects, His Favorite Place To Climb, Rocklands/Switzerland Ticklist, and Being a Good Climber 17:32

9 weeks назад17:32

17:32

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #137 for context! SHOW NOTES: Kai Whaley’s Instagram Kai Whaley’s YouTube Kai Whaley’s Episode, #137 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE…

1
#137 Kai Whaley — Youngest To Climb V10/12/16 And 17 Soon?!, NOT Being A Comp Kid, Live Streaming Highballs And V16s, and BOARDS 1:43:27

9 weeks назад1:43:27